Step 2 : Unroll and make rough-cuts
You'll see that the rolls of wallpaper need to be reversed so the pattern is at the top of the wall. Unroll the roll and reverse it so when it's unrolled, the top of the pattern is at the top of the roll. Begin rough-cutting the first strip by unrolling the roll on the wall, allowing for an excess of about 3 inches at the top and the bottom. Then cut the first strip of wallpaper.
Step 3 : Book the paper
Some wallcoverings are prepasted and have dry adhesive on the back of the paper that becomes activated when it's soaked in water; others require a pre-paste activator that you apply with a paint roller. Follow the manufacturer's directions of the wallcovering you're using. When the adhesive on the back of the first strip is ready to hang, fold the paper with the wet back sides together, this is called "booking the paper" and it keeps the adhesive moist.
Step 4 : Hang the first strip
Unfold the top of the first strip and align it with the vertical lines you drew on the wall at the starting point. Holding the strip at the sides of the top of the pattern, gently position the strip so there's about 3 inches above the ceiling joint. With a smoothing brush, smooth the strip all down the wall. Work your way from the sides to the top and bottom of the paper removing creases or bubbles with the brush. Any small bump or lump trapped under the paper must be removed.
Step 5 : Cut the excess
Using the razor knife and trim guard or putty knife, cut the excess wallpaper at the top and bottom of the wall. Hold the trim guard or putty knife firmly in the joint between the ceiling or baseboard and make a clean decisive cut through the wallpaper. Remove excessive adhesive with a quick swipe with the wet sponge. It's much easier to remove while still wet than when dried.
Step 6 : Join and seal the seams
Unfold the next strip aligning it with the first one, allowing about 3 inches at the top and bottom. Join the strips together at a butt seam (don't overlap them) and smooth and seal them with a small hand-held seam roller.
Step 7 : Make relief cuts
As you work your way around the room you'll meet electrical outlets, windows, doorways, and other obstructions. These are handled by making relief cuts around them. The cuts can be simple right angles cut around an electrical outlet or more free-hand cuts around ceiling fixtures. To make a relief cut, smooth the paper as close as possible to the obstruction, hold the razor knife firmly in hand and make a clean sharp cut. Another technique is to crease the wallpaper around the obstructions, peel it back gently and use a pair of scissors to make the cut along the crease.
Step 8 : Cut an inside and outside corner
To make cuts at an inside or outside corner, avoid wrapping more than half an inch of wallpaper because it will eventually pull away from the corner and tear or wrinkle. This is not an attractive look. Instead, use a wrap and overlap technique to double-cut the wallpaper. This will create a nice clean seam. When hanging a strip into a corner, measure and cut the strip lengthwise so it will meet the corner, wrapping it about 1/2 inch. Then hang the strip, but peel it back from the corner a few inches, about 1/8 inch farther from the corner than the narrowest width of the cutoff. Use a carpenter's level as a guideline. Apply the next strip on the adjacent wall and wrap the corner. Smooth the second strip in place and trim with the razor knife guided by a long metal straightedge. Remove the trimmed area and peel back the wallpaper from the corner so you can reposition the first strip. Smooth both in place with the seam roller.
Step 9 : End at the beginning wall
Continue around the room until reaching the starting point. Use the same double-cutting technique to fill in the gap between the first and the last strips, if the last strip doesn't fill exactly. The best advice is to plan the cut at a location where a pattern mismatch will be the least noticeable, such as at a corner or over the door. Seal seams with the seam roller.
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