Step 3 : Install the planks
Apply glue in the grooves of the pieces as you lay them. Tap the pieces together so that they fit tightly at both the ends and along the sides. (With some floating floors you must glue along the entire length, for others you don't.) Wipe off excess glue with a damp cloth after the pieces are together. Repeat the above for the next two rows and then allow the planks to sit for an hour or so.
The planks that you lay in the first few rows may tend to pop apart when you install a new row. Some manufacturers offer professional installation kits that include special web clamps that are used to hold the first few rows together. Some dealers rent the kit to do-it-yourself installers. Alternately you can use vinyl electrician's tape to hold the first ones together.
Step 4 : Trim the door casing with a hand saw
When your floor passes through a doorway, cut the bottom of the door casing to allow the floor to slip under it. Cut or notch the flooring so that it extends under the casing, but not all the way to the framing behind it.
Step 5 : Cut the planks for the last row
The easiest way to determine the width for the final plank is to place each full-width piece face up directly on top of the second-to-last row. Then lay another strip on it and against the spacers, which, in turn are against the wall. Use a straight edge to mark a cut line along the edge.
Step 6 : Install the last row
Glue and position the last planks and instead of tapping the sides together, use a pry bar inserted between the wall and the planks to force the pieces together; then insert a tapered shim between the spacer and the edges to hold the pieces together until the glue dries.
Step 7 : Install base or shoe molding
When the glue is dry, remove all spacers at the walls. Nail the base molding to the wall and shoe molding to the base molding. Remember that the floor must be free to expand and contract so do not toenail the shoe molding into the floor.
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